Stetson Hat: An American Icon
The Stetson hat, an iconic piece of American headwear, has a rich history deeply intertwined with the rugged spirit of the American West. It was invented in 1865 by John B. Stetson, a hatter from Philadelphia who had spent time out West and recognized the need for a durable, all-weather hat suited for the harsh conditions.
History of Stetson Hats
John B. Stetson, the founder, was born in 1830 in New Jersey to a family of hatters. In 1865, after spending time out West for his health, he returned to Philadelphia and started the John B. Stetson Company with $100.
Stetson's original design, called the "Boss of the Plains," featured a high crown with straight sides and rounded corners, a wide flat brim, and a sweatband with his name. It was made from lightweight, waterproof beaver fur felt and designed to protect the wearer from sun, rain, and other elements.
The tall crown created an insulating pocket of air, while the wide brim shielded the face, and the entire hat could even be used to carry water.
The Stetson quickly gained popularity among cowboys, prospectors, and others in the West due to its practicality and durability.
While the hats came from the factory in a standard shape, wearers would often customize them by creasing the crown or bending the brim, creating styles like the "Cattleman" crease that became associated with different subcultures.
Stetson's company grew rapidly, becoming the largest hat maker in the world by 1886 and producing millions of hats annually. The Stetson hat transcended its utilitarian roots to become a symbol of prosperity and the adventurous spirit of the West, worn by figures like Theodore Roosevelt and Buffalo Bill. It was featured in Wild West shows and literature, cementing its iconic status.
Materials and Manufacturing of Stetson Hats
Stetson hats are primarily made from fur felt, which is fashioned from a variety of animal furs, preferably beaver, rabbit, and wild hare. The fur is cleaned, treated, and transformed into felt through processes involving hot water, pressure, and rolling. Other materials used in Stetson hat production include:
Leather for the interior sweatband, sometimes attached with glue
Dyes to achieve different felt colors
Powder to soften the felt
Two-ply or two-cord band to create the ribbon that encircles the crown
Thread for stitching the ribbon
Small metal eyelets for venting
In addition to fur felt, Stetson also produces hats made from other materials such as straw, wool, and synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon. The straw hats can be woven from raffia palm, toquilla palm (used for Panama hats), palm leaf, seagrass, rush straw, or wheat straw.
Making a Stetson Hat
The process of making a Stetson hat involves several intricate steps that showcase the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship:
Mixing the fur: A blend of high-quality furs is carefully mixed together and run through a blower to separate the longer hair from the shorter, finer "down" used to make the felt.
Forming the fur felt: The fur down is weighed out for each hat and formed onto a cone-shaped mold using a vacuum. The cone is wrapped in burlap, immersed in hot water, and pressure is applied to initiate felting and shrinkage to the desired hat size.
Dyeing and shaping: The hats are dyed, coated with shellac, and shaped using wooden hat blocks to form the crown and brim.
Crown shaping and finishing: Wooden blocks are used to create the taper, shape, and head size. The hat is sanded, powdered, compacted, and the iconic crown dent is formed with a rubber plug and pressure.
Trimming and inspection: A genuine leather sweatband, satin lining, and the Stetson logo are added. Each hat undergoes careful inspection before being boxed for sale.
Stetson's manufacturing process combines century-old techniques with modern equipment to produce their legendary hats with uncompromising quality and craftsmanship.
Current Status and Design
After over a century as the largest hat manufacturer in the world, the original Stetson Hat Company ceased production in 1968. The company then transitioned to a licensing model, allowing other manufacturers to produce and sell hats under the iconic Stetson name and designs.
Today, Stetson exists as Stetson Worldwide, a licensing company based in New York that oversees the brand. The actual Stetson cowboy hats are manufactured by a company called Hatco in Garland, Texas under a licensing agreement. While Stetson no longer owns factories or directly produces the hats, it maintains tight quality control by carefully selecting licensees and approving all hat designs bearing the Stetson name.
The current design of Stetson hats stays true to the brand's iconic Western heritage while incorporating modern styles and materials:
Classic Western styles like the "Boss of the Plains" and traditional creases remain core to the lineup.
Modern interpretations feature updated proportions, materials, and expanded color options to appeal to contemporary tastes.
The range has expanded to include Panama straw hats, flat caps, bucket hats, and other casual styles.
Attention to fit guidance helps customers select the optimal shape and size.
While paying homage to its roots, Stetson has evolved its designs to remain relevant, wearable, and appealing to both Western enthusiasts and modern style-conscious consumers. The iconic Stetson silhouette persists, complemented by contemporary interpretations and an expanded range of options.
Conclusion
The Stetson hat is more than just a hat; it is a symbol of the American West and the pioneering spirit that shaped it. From its practical origins as a durable, all-weather hat for cowboys and frontiersmen to its status as a cultural icon, the Stetson has stood the test of time. Although the original company no longer manufactures the hats directly, the Stetson legacy lives on through carefully selected licensees who continue to produce these legendary hats with the same commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Whether worn as a functional accessory or a fashion statement, the Stetson hat remains an enduring emblem of American heritage and style.
Richard Sutherland
RichardSutherland@bitsnspurs.orgRichard is a western lifestyle author for Bits N' Spurs, the weekly newsletter that keeps pace with today's rodeo. His articles are featured on dozens of rodeo and Western related websites and provide a window to the world of cowboy culture.